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How To Learn How To Play The Guitar Fender Telecaster Guitars Guitar Songbooks Peavey Guitar
The guitar build, the final entry...
What a blast of a project... Challenging, fun, and a real test of skill. It does make me appreciate just how good some of the craftsmen are out there that build some of these amazing "homemade" guitars. I can honestly say there will be more, I don't know how I will ever resist the pull again. My wife has other plans for me for the near future, unfortunately...
Casting runes (small stone tablets with Nordic Runes engraved upon them) is an old Norse way of divining the paths one can take and see the eventual outcome. It's not fortune-telling, at least not in the sense most are used to... They were more to help you choose which way you should go. It might not have hurt me to cast a few to see where I was going...
I started with a plan to build two guitars, and ended up with three. Originally, I was going to build a test neck out of some rather standard maple I picked up that was dirt cheap... It was a good idea... The "test" neck turned out well enough that I couldn't see not using it - so I quickly routed out a new body out of some alder, and this is what I ended up with:
It has an alder body, Gotoh vintage tuners (my favorite), and a Fender Original Vintage Telecaster Pickup set. The neck pickup is mounted to the body (not the pickguard) to facilitate using the truss rod, which is a vintage variety truss rod, adjusted at the heel of the neck.
I decided to go with a pretty standard Telecaster approach with the addition of some body contouring...
I like the contouring, though it might be against the grain of some purists. Really, I wanted to try it out on this one before moving on to the Strat.
The finish is lacquer - I was shooting for a butterscotch color, though because the wood was alder, the wood grain really didn't show through well (most Telecasters that you can are made from lightweight ash...), so I went solid color. That and it was tough to get the color I wanted.
The first round looked too white - the next was so very yellow.. In the end, the magic mix used transtint honey amber with a little brown mahogany over what was basically a white base coat.
The upside to this - you know when you go to the guitar store and you play a whole bunch of different guitars but there's that one you keep going back to? Of the three I made - this is that guitar.
Now, I won't claim any great talent for playing, but here's a sample of this guitar. There are three entries in the following: the first is the bridge pickup, the second is both pickups, the third is the neck pickup. Forgive the player, he's just doing his best....
It looks like you don't have Adobe Flash Player installed. Get it now.
If the player above doesn't load, here's a direct link to the file:
http://norsewoodsmith.com/files/images/casters/mp3/runecaster.mp3
I don't have the greatest recording equipment... Well, maybe the greatest you can have for <$100, so forgive the poor quality.
This is a fun guitar to play... of the three this is my favorite player.
Jörmungandr is a sea serpent (a Viking dragon) in Norse mythology, one so large that he was able to encircle the earth and grab his own tail... When you see an ancient Norse carving that looks like a snake eating its own tail, it's likely that snake is Jörmungandr.
On this guitar, I wanted to try a few different things. First off, gold hardware, a sunburst finish, and double binding to dress it up.
It has a black walnut body with a curly maple cap; the neck is from a 60 year old maple board I have in my stash.
The tuners are vintage-style Gotoh's again, and the pickups are a Fender Vintage "Noiseless" Tele pickup set. The neck pickup is also mounted to the body (not the pickguard) to facilitate using the truss rod, which is also a vintage variety truss rod, adjusted at the heel of the neck.
The pickups have a bit more output than the single-coil Tele pickups on the Runecaster, though they still retain that vintage Tele sound.
I guess the "dressing up" must have worked some - this is the guitar everybody who has seen them likes most. I will admit - especially on the back, the walnut looks grand:
All of the wood in this guitar is from my own stash, mostly from the pile I've been saving for those "special" projects.
Here's a sound file of Jörmungandr in action - I tried to find some that seemed to fit the sound of the guitar best, unfortunately my playing isn't what I'd like it to be. Again, the first is on the bridge pickup, the next on both, and the third is the neck pickup alone.
It looks like you don't have Adobe Flash Player installed. Get it now.
If the player above doesn't load, here's a direct link to the file:
http://norsewoodsmith.com/files/images/casters/mp3/jormungandr.mp3
This guitar probably taught me the most, what with the sunburst and the binding.
Mjöllnir is the hammer of Thor; in some translations, it is an axe. It seemed an obvious choice for a name to me...
If you haven't guessed it already, it is basically a copy of David Gilmour's (of Pink Floyd fame) guitar. You can read all about the Black Strat on the David Gilmour Gear Guide on Gilmourish.com. Here's my version:
Fender also makes two versions David Gilmour Signature Stratocaster, a NOS (New Old Stock) version, and a "relic'd" version. You can see them here:
http://www.fender.com/features/gilmour/
There are two basic differences on mine - I haven't yet installed the shorter tremolo arm (though I will), and I didn't install the extra switch that can turn on both the neck pickup and the bridge pickup at the same time though I may at some point in the future. Truth be told, I have the switch - I just didn't have the patience to install it, I wanted to get the thing together and play it...
It has an alder body, the maple neck is from the same 60 year old maple as Jörmungandr. The neck and middle pickups are Fender Custom Shop 69' Strat® Pickups, which should approximately match the 1968 pickup in Gilmour's guitar. The bridge pickup is a Seymour Duncan SSL-5 over-wound pickup to match the pickup Mr. Duncan himself wound for Mr. Gilmour that was subsequently installed in the Black Strat.
The hardware after that is the standard Stratocaster appointments, including the vintage tuners (same as above).
The truss rod is adjusted at the head of the neck, different from the first two.
Being this is a tribute guitar, it seems only fitting I played something (attempted to, anyway) from whom it was that inspired it. Here's the two guitar solos from Comfortably Numb, from Pink Floyd's The Wall album.
It looks like you don't have Adobe Flash Player installed. Get it now.
If the player above doesn't load, here's a direct link to the file:
http://norsewoodsmith.com/files/images/casters/mp3/Comfortably_Numb-1st_Solo.mp3
It looks like you don't have Adobe Flash Player installed. Get it now.
If the player above doesn't load, here's a direct link to the file:
http://norsewoodsmith.com/files/images/casters/mp3/Comfortably_Numb-2nd_Solo.mp3
Keep in mind I don't have much of recording studio - all of the recordings above were piped directly through my Vox VT-30 amp (no pedals or effects other than what's in the amp) into the computer using an M-Audio Fast-Track interface and recorded using the Pro-Tools M-Powered Essential recording software that came with it. The backing track for Comfortably Numb is courtesy Gilmourish.com.
In any case, I learned a lot with these, and am hoping to apply what I did to a future project soon.
Thanks for reading!
Leif
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Mano-Destra is an Italian term used in piano music indicating that a specific passage is to be played by the right hand. In this case the right hand rules the mouse of a computer to orchestrate brilliant beats and layers of sound that can only be explained by pure genius. Sit back and discover Mano-Destra.
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I've been getting a few questions lately on saw files - what to get, and where to get them, mostly. Here's some highlights from those correspondences that others might find useful.
I've found that Nicholsen saw files are getting to be poorer quality - though they will still do in a pinch, most certainly... I have many boxes of older Nicholsens that will keep me in files for quite a while. For new, I recommend Grobet files personally, though I've seen Daryl Weir recommend Bahco files, and with the immense skill he has in sharpening a saw I wouldn't doubt his word at all.
EDIT: Pedder (of Two Lawyers Sawmakers) in a comment below mentions:
The best source for saw files in europe is Dieter Schmid's fine-tools.com
http://www.fine-tools.com/euroscha.htm
Grobet files (labled F. Dick)
Thanks Pedder! I had completely forgotten about that company... For everyone else - take a look at Pedder's offerings - they are an up and coming pair of sawmakers whose work is amongst the best I've seen...
Just so you know, I am working on getting a supplier lined up for selling saw files through this website at some time in the future... We'll have to see if it works out, but watch here for updates.
While I'm at it, here's a few links and images from previous articles on Norse Woodsmith:
Lines drawings with spacings for saw teeth in PDF format:
Here's a recommened list of files for ppi/tpi of saws - compiled and consolidated from several sources:
For sizing a particular file to a particular tooth size - this is the general rule of thumb you want to follow:
On an entirely different subject:
A request was made in my last entry something similar to "no pictures, didn't happen"... so here is a portion of Neil Young's "Down By The River" accompanied by me on one of the guitars I made,,,
It looks like you don't have Adobe Flash Player installed. Get it now.
If the player above doesn't load, here's a direct link to the file:
http://norsewoodsmith.com/files/images/casters/mp3/DownTrack3.mp3
No apologies for the player's abilities - he's trying his best, mind you. You should be able to tell which guitar it is I'm playing pretty easily (it is Mjöllnir, BTW).
Leif
Guitar Prices Gibson Les Paul Guitar Blueridge Guitar Guitar Stand
Guitar Prices Gibson Les Paul Guitar Blueridge Guitar Guitar Stand
I'm getting close to the end of these posts on building a guitar... After this entry, my focus will shift to finishing. Last time I shaped the bodies of the other two guitars, and in this I will add binding to the corners of the third.
Binding is a strip of either wood or plastic added to the very corner of a guitar. Often (usually on acoustic guitars, less so on electric) these strips also have "purfling" - which is a decorative strip or inlay on either side of the binding strip - I won't be adding any purfling here, just a simple binding strip to both front and back edges making this guitar what is known as "double-bound".
I've done some binding with wood on previous projects, but this was the first time I tried using a plastic binding.... To tell the truth, this is actually my second attempt at binding this particular guitar as I failed with the first attempt. That was entirely my fault, mostly because of my frugality - when ordering parts, I had included a couple strips of plastic cream-colored binding that measured 090" x .250" x 65" long (one for each side) and figured I would try make do with the rabbeting bits I already own to route the channels for them. I knew I owned a set that had a bunch of bearings with it, so I figured there must be one in there I can use that's close.
The 1/4" depth obviously wasn't a problem, as that's just the setting for how deep to go. The problem was with the .090" thickness of the binding. The rabbeting set I have has bearings for 1/8" and for 1/16" deep (0.125" and 0.0625" respectively) - and the .090" binding falls right between those. The 1/8" slot was far too deep, but I figured I would try the 1/16" bit and see how it worked out.
I know, I know. I know better than that - but I did it anyway. It was good practice... but that's about all. After I had the binding in place, it stuck out quite a ways/ I scraped it down (which went quite well, really) to where it was 1/16" thick, but it just didn't look quite right - and there were a couple spots where I scraped a little too much, and the binding subsequently became too thin - and at 1/16" it's far too easy to see a flaw like that.
So, I ordered a proper set of rabbeting bits (StewMac seems to be about the only place to get them) along with some new binding strips and re-routed the body with a correctly sized rabbet and went about reinstalling the new binding strips.
The plastic strips that came would never work as they came - they needed to be pre-bent to fit the guitar. So I taped the center of the strip to the bottom of the guitar and worked my way around the body fitting the strip a few inches at a time, taping the binding strip as I went.
To add a bend to the plastic is just a matter of heating the plastic until it deforms easily, then holding it in place while it cools. It really doesn't take a lot of heat - I did this using a heat gun, but I think that was really too hot - a hair dryer would probably have worked better. I don't own one though - and didn't want to spend any more money for such a thing (but now that I think of it, I could probably have just checked out a couple local thrift stores and picked one up for a buck or two).
The tight curves at the end were the most challenging. I just worked a few inches at a time, taping the binding as I went, making sure I could tape it with no gaps when it came time to do the same thing with glue.
The front will not require a splice, as the binding ends at the neck pocket. The back does, however, and I figured about the best place for a splice would be behind the neck - the other choice being at the bottom of the guitar, though I thought with all the curves it might be easier to work with the binding at the end of it's run rather than in the middle. I cut the binding strip to length where the two ends met, being extremely careful to make a perpendicular cut on each end.
Then it was just a matter of gluing the binding into place - again, I started at the bottom of the guitar with the middle of the strip and worked my way up each side, taping it in place as I went, then let it sit for a full 24 hours to let the glue cure. I used the Weld-On cement StewMac sells to glue the binding in place.
It went fairly well, at least for the most part.
When I was finished with the back, I repeated the process for the top of the guitar. There were two significant problems I ran into. The first was this:
Now how did I let that happen? I thought I was so careful when cutting the thing to length. Ugh... To fix it, I cut a thin slice of binding strip and glued it into place - the glue literally melts the plastic, so it should be a sound repair.
When the glue was dry, I trimmed off the excess and scraped and sanded the joint so it was flush. It does leave a little bit of a line, however.
I've read where you can take a small piece of binding strip and place it in a capful of acetone, which will melt the plastic giving you a little plastic paste you can fill small gaps with - this binding strip must be of a different type of plastic as I couldn't get it to do that... It's not all that obvious on the guitar, so this will work.
The other significant issue I had with the binding was it didn't always adhere as well as I think it should have. You can see it in the curve of the body in the photo where I cut the strip to fill above, and on the top I could pull the binding out here at the bottom of the guitar:
That was disappointing, to say the least... I guess you can't expect what is essentially a PVC glue to hold all that well to wood. To repair these gaps, I held the offending areas of binding out with my finger like in the shot above and wicked in some thin CA glue into the void, then held that all in place until it dried - problem solved for now, but next time I want a better solution. I tested some glues, more on that in a bit...
To finish the binding was a simple matter of scraping it flush with the body, simply enough done with a hand-held scraper:
From here, it can be sanded and treated just as the rest of the body is.
I want to do this better next time - specifically, I want a better glue. Now, some sort of plastic glue will be necessary to have on hand for purpose such as the repair above, where one is gluing plastic to itself, but for gluing the binding to the body, there has to be a better solution. A little testing was needed... First, a plastic glue or CA glue is commonly used for this purpose, so I decided to try a few different plastic glues against a gel form CA glue.
I had read somewhere that Testor's model glue was for all intents the same thing as Weld-On and could be used in it's stead - so I picked a bottle up at the local hobby store and by happenstance I was in the hardware store I noticed they had Duco plastic model cement, so I picked up a tube of that as well. I knew each would work well for gluing plastic to itself, but besides being a bit of a skeptic having not done much in the way of gluing plastic to wood in the past I didn't know how each would hold onto wood... So I set up a little test to see. I glued a short strip of binding to a piece of beech with each glue and let it set for 24 hours. The contenders were, in order:
#1: Weld-On
#2: Duco Plastic Model Cement
#3: Testor's Model Cement
#4: Loctite CA (gel form)
First thing I noticed - the three plastic cements are NOT all equal. They each smell distinctly different, and carry different material warnings on their labels.
Now - this is wholly subjective, and I don't claim to be any kind of expert - my test was simply to pull the binding strip off of the wood to see how well each held on. For a rating system I'll use a 1 to 10 scale - let's say that this was a wood to wood joint done with wood glue as being the standard for a score of 10; a rating of 5 for the absolute minimum I would consider using; and a rating of 1 would be a complete failure. My ratings for each glue would be:
#1: Weld-On
My rating: 5. It came off fairly easily, and while I wouldn't say it impressed me, I would think it to be sufficient enough of a hold to work (good because it's sold for that purpose!).
#2: Duco Plastic Model Cement
My rating: 3. It came off more easily than the Weld-On. I don't think I would use this stuff.
#3: Testor's Model Cement
My rating: 2. This stuff barely held. I definitely would not use it for binding.
#4: Loctite CA
My rating: 8. The CA held just about as well as I think you could expect any glue to hold plastic binding in place on a wood base. It wasn't as good as a wood to wood joint with wood glue - but the joint was very strong.
My take - The strongest was by far the CA glue - it's short working time would enable you to only glue a few inches at a time at best, but I think that's what I will use next time.
The Weld-On worked also - and while I wouldn't call it a "strong" joint, it does the job. I did end up using the Weld-On for this project, but was ultimately disappointed - I ended up fixing gaps where it just didn't hold well - using CA.
The other two - they just didn't hold nearly well enough for me to even consider using them.
Now, I had an idea of what held well and what didn't as far as those glues go, but I wanted to take it a little further - CA is a good glue, but it's working time is very short - so I decided to test a few more glues in the same manner to see what else might work. Here, the contenders are:
I didn't include hot hide glue - I didn't have any ready at the time I put the test together - but the liquid hide glue should suffice as a test for it as well, as once they are dry they behave very similarly. Neither did I include polyurethane glue - I don't allow that stuff in my shop - nor did I include any kind of epoxy, as you are just asking for trouble using that here, at least in my opinion.
My ratings:
Leif
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